Friday, September 11, 2009

Hazelnut Braid


Hazelnut Braid (2/2)
© All rights reserved, Thorsten Kraska, 2009


I love the flavor of hazelnut in cakes. And marchpane is intensifying the flavor of hazelnuts even more. Here is a cake which not only has a nice structure but has an intense hazelnut flavor. Not too sweet though.


Hazelnut Braid
(for one braid)

...for the filling:
100 g hazelnuts (grounded)
100 g marchpane*
1 egg
50 g sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla flavor
1 tablespoon rum (or milk, if you don't want to bake with rum)

...for the dough:
300 g all purpose flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
160 g Curd
6 tablespoons milk
6 tablespoons oil
90 g sugar
2 teaspoon vanilla flavor
1 dash salt

...for the glaze:
4 tablespoons peach or apricot jam
2 tablespoons water

* Marchpane: in German "Marzipan" (Spain: mazapán, France: massepain, Italy: marzapane). Sometimes you find the name almond paste. It is a raw mixture for baking and not the end product.

Prepare the filling first. Roast the grounded hazelnuts over medium high heat slightly. Set aside. Mix the rest of the ingredients for the filling until homogenous. I'm using a fork for this step, because so you can easily mash the marchpane with the egg and other ingredients. Add the hazelunuts and mix. Set aside.

Put the curd into a sieve which you have lined out with some paper towels. This step will make the curd more dry. After 15 to 30 minutes the curd is in general dry enough for the dough.

Prepare the dough. Mix flour and baking powder and sieve into a bowl. Add the other ingredients for the dough. Mix for one minute on high speed with your mixer and dough hooks. Do not mix too long, because dough would get sticky.

Knead a few times with hands to form the dough. Then roll it out to a size of about 40 by 30 cm. Spread the filling evenly on the dough leaving about 1 cm free from each side. Form a roll fom the longest side. Half the roll lengthwise and fold it apart. With the sliced side pointing upward form a braid. Press the ends slightly so that they will not fall apart while baking.

Bake in a preheated oven at 170 C on a greased baking tray for 40 to 45 minutes. After 30 minutes you should watch the cake. If the cake is getting too brown covered it with some baking paper.

While baking prepare the glaze. Mix jam and water in a small pot and let it cook on medium high heat for 5 to 10 minutes to thicken it.

Take out the cake of the oven and while hot glaze it. Let it cool completely on a cooling rack.


Hazelnut Braid (1/2)
© All rights reserved, Thorsten Kraska, 2009



About the photos
To show the structure better I sliced the cake a placed two slices beside the cake but leave most of the cake to show the braid structure. As reference for the filling I have used hazelnuts and hazelnuts leaves which are in season now. They shouldn't be too perfect to avoid a too staged impression. Composition wise the photos are based on a brown green contrast for an earthern impression. The use of the silver plate should emphasize the rustic look. In the first photo I have used a T/S lens which gave me the chance to use a top down angle but still have the focal plain like in a lower angled version.

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

German Classic: Marbled Cake


Marbled Cake
© All rights reserved, Thorsten Kraska, 2009


Maybe marbled cake is "The" classic German Cake. At least for me. I can not think of any birthday, anniversary or other family celebration without marbled cake made in a bundt cake form. And for all grown up in the 60s and 70s it is connected to one cook book "Backen macht Freude", the Dr. Oetker baking book, first published in 1960 and still available. The recipes in this book are foolproofed and I still rely on it when it comes to baking, although I have my own variations. The original front cover was Marbled Cake and browsing through the book always brings up childhood memories.


Marbled Cake
(for one bundt cake form)

300 g butter (softened)
285 g sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla flavor
1 tablespoon rum
1 dash salt
5 eggs

375 g all purpose flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons milk

20 g Dutch Cocoa Powder
20 g sugar
3 tablespoons milk

Grease a suited bundt cake form. Preheat oven to 180°C.

Mix Dutch Cocoa powder, 20 sugar and 3 tablespoons milk until sugar and cocoa powder are dissilved. The mixture should be homogenous.

In a large bowl mix butter to make it creamy. Add sugar and a dash salt and mix on hight speed until sugar is well blended. Now add one egg after the other. After adding one egg mix for about one minute on medium to high speed. Which each egg the batter will get softer and more creamy. Aater you have added the fifth egg, add rum and vanilla flavor and mix again.

Mix flour and baking powder. Sieve half of flour mixture onto butter batter and mix until blended. Don't overmix. Add 2 tablespoons milk and mix. Sieve rest of flour mixture onto batter and mix again.

Fill 2/3 of batter into bundt cake form.

To the rest of the batter add dutch cocoa powder mixture and mix until blended. Fill cocoa batter onto the other batter. By using a fork and a spiral move through the batter swirl the dark bater into the light batter to get the typical marbled cake structure.

Bake in the oven for 50 to 60 minutes or until cake is done. Cake is done when a tooth pick comes out clean. When the cake gets to dark on top you can cover it with baking paper.

When cake is done, let cool for about 10 minutes in baking form. Then let cool completely on cooling rack. Before serving dust the cake with powder sugar generousely.


Marbled Cake
© All rights reserved, Thorsten Kraska, 2009



Backen macht Freude
German Baking Today

This book was published first in 1960 by Dr. Oetker and has been used in my family until then. And I guess this is the case in most German families. Meanwhile you can get it in English too called "German Baking Today". The recipes in the newer editions are still the same. For those interested in food photography a comparision of the original edition of 1960 and the latest one is highly inetersting. The photographic sytyle has changed completely (obviousely). I still can remeber most of the colored photographs from the original edition. To save space two or more different recipes were shown in one photograph.


Variation of form and size
You can try this cake in different baking forms, like a loaf pan form form. Or make it as little single cakes in a muffin pan.


Marble Cake
© All rights reserved, Thorsten Kraska, 2009



Marbled Mini Cakes (2)
© All rights reserved, Thorsten Kraska, 2009

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Easy Lunch: Bean Salad


Easy Lunch: bean salad
© All rights reserved, Thorsten Kraska, 2009


The last days I was way too lazy for cooking. Happenstance, my wife made this great bean salad which is done in no time and will get better over the day as longer the flavors have time to blend. Serve it with some roasted bread and a glass of white wine and you will have a wonderful easy and quick lunch on a too hot day to cook.

Bean Salad
(serves one or more)

1 can (285 g) cooked kidny beans
1 can (285 g) cooked large white beans
1 spring onion
1 tablespoon parsley (chopped)
1.5 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon lemon juice
0.5 teaspoon sugar
salt
pinch cayenne pepper
pinch black pepper



© All rights reserved, Thorsten Kraska, 2009


Slice the spring onion (should be about 1 to 2 tablespoons of finely sliced spring onions) and blanch them for a few seconds. Then drench them in cold water.

Drench the beans and put in a suited bowl. Add chopped parsley, sliced spring onions and mix.

Make a vinaigrette out of the other ingredients. Add salt to taste. The vinaigrette will be sour in taste. This will disappear later.

Pour vinaigrette over beans. Mix gently and let stand for at least one hour so that flavors can blend. Add salt and black pepper (or cayenne pepper) to taste.

Serve with some roasted toast or white bread and a glass of white wine. Enjoy.


Variation of easy lunch
© All rights reserved, Thorsten Kraska, 2009



About the two photographs
The two photographs are almost the same. The difference between them are just two details. In the 2nd photo I have moved the parsley leaf a bit more to the back. Now it is on the toast bread instead of in front of it. And I have added some bread crumbs in front of the plate. I did this for two reasons: I feel that the toast bread in the 1st photo was just like a prop and not be part of the dish. By showing a bit more of the front side of the bread (which was covered by the parsley leaf) and by adding the crumbs I wanted to bring it to the attention of the viewer. The crumbs add a bit of casuality (which I like), the image is not that clean as the 1st one is.
In both photographs I have used a tilt-shift lens, mainly to reduce DoF field more without using a too low aperture. The other reasons was that I wanted a small turn of the focal plain. It is not straight to the frame as it would be with other lenses. I slightly turn it around.

Saturday, August 15, 2009

Tradition at its best


Dresdner Eierschecke (2/4)
© All rights reserved, Thorsten Kraska, 2009


I have been asked to post the recipe for "Dresdner Eierschecke" several times. And I have to apologize that I needed so long to write it down. The name "Eierschecke" for this cake refers to the top layer which is an egg custard. This cake is a speciality in the German regions Saxony and Thuringa. Dresden is the capital city of Saxony and famous for the historic parts of the city with the "Dresdner Zwinger", Semperoper or the Frauenkirche. I found the recipe for Dresdner Eierschecke a while ago in a monthly journal in 2007 and it was a success from the start. It needs some time to prepare it, but it is worthwhile the effort. I have made some slight changes, so this recipe will differ from other recipes for Dresdner Eierschecke, but it was done in the sense of it.



Dresdner Eierschecke
(for one baking tray)

...for the dough:
350 g all purpose flour
20 g baker's yeast (I use original baker's yeast)
3 tablespoons sugar
125 ml milk (lukewarm)
50 g butter (softened)
1 egg
a dash of salt

...for the curd filling:
750 g curd (Quark)
130 g sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla flavor
1 package instant pudding powder (flavor: vanilla)

...for the egg custard layer:
1 package instant pudding powder (flavor: cream)
375 mL milk
5 eggs (divided into yolks and whites)
150 g sugar
150 g butter
a dash of salt

...and:
flaked almonds
powder sugar

Notes:
For this recipe you need instant pudding powder, which are well known in Germany. I package is meant for 500 mL pudding. The instant pudding powder contains flavor and other ingredients, but no sugar. So you should try to get a pudding powder which is suited for 500 mL of milk.
I'm using vanilla flavor instead of vanilla sugar. It is more intense in flavor. This is for sure a variation for the traditional recipe.


Put flour into a large bowl. In the center form a dell. In this dell crumble the yeast and add 1 tablespoon of sugar and some of the lukewarm milk. Mix gently with a fork to dissolve the yeast. Use just a bit of the yeast. This pre-dough mixture should be fluid. Let stand in a warm place for 20 minutes.

After 20 minutes add the other ingredients for the dough and knead some time to from a smooth dough. I suggest to knead at least for 5 to 10 minutes. If the dough is too moist add some more flour. Let stand this dough in a warm place for about 30 minutes. The dough should double in volume.

Meanwhile prepare the egg custard layer and the Quark filling.

For the Quark filling mix eggs, sugar and vanilla flavor until foamy. Add Quark and pudding powder and fold in. Set aside.

For the egg custard layer whisk the egg whites with a dash of salt until stiff. Mix the pudding powder with some of the milk until well blended. Bring the rest of the milk and sugar to a boil. Mix in the pudding powder mixture and while constantly stirring bring to a boil again. Let cool slightly. Then mix in the butter, then the egg yolks. Fold in the egg whites and set aside.

Preaheat oven to 200°C. Grease baking tray.

Knead dough again and roll out the dough on the baking tray. Form a rim and prick the dough several times with a fork.

Disperse the Quark filling on dough to form the first layer. Then very carefully disperse the egg custard on top of the Quark layer to form the next layer. Sprinkle with almond flakes.

Let bake in the oven for about 40 minutes. If the top is getting to brown cover with some baking paper. When cake is done take out of the oven and let cool on a baking tray.

Before serving cut into pieces and dust generously with powder sugar. Enjoy.


Dresdner Eierschecke (3/4)
© All rights reserved, Thorsten Kraska, 2009

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Dog Days of Summer


Lemon-Mint Ice Tea
© All rights reserved, Thorsten Kraska, 2009


It happens not too often this year here in Germany where I live, but we were having some damn hot days. Days, when you don't even can think of cooking without sweating, although the oven might be cooler than temepratures outside. These dog days of summer are meant for having a long Siesta in the shadows with something cold: ice tea.

My recipe for Lemon-Mint Ice tea is just one variation. It is more like a blueprint for me, sometimes I make it sweeter, other times I use more lemon juice or lime juice. Sometimes I omit the mint leaves, other times it is more like mint ice tea. Just play around with the ingredients. The only thing I would suggest, use a tea of good quality. I always use loose tea leaves, never tea bags. If you drink a lot of tea like I do you will come sooner or later to tea leaves.


Lemon-Mint Ice Tea
(hope no one else is requesting a glass)


750 mL ice cold water
1.5 Tablespoons lemon juice
some fresh mint leaves

250 mL boiling water
Tea Leaves to make 1 litre black tea
1.5 Tablespoons sugar

Combine the first three ingredients and set aside.

In a suited pot pour boiling hot water over the tea leaves and let brew for two minutes. Then pour the black tea through a sieve directly into the ice cold water mixture.

Serve the ice tea with some extra wedges of lemon or lime. If you like you can garnish the ice tea with some additional mint leaves. If you like it ice cold add some ice cubes to your tea.

Use your favorite black tea for this recipe. I prefer a strong black tea variety. But if you like you can use tea bags too. The amount of mint leaves needed depends on the mint variety and how strong the flavor is. I would suggest to start with not too many. Dog days of summer will last mid of August. So there is some time left to get the right mixture.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

The "true" color - about white balance and color mood

It all seems so easy in these digital times of photography. Hit the release button and there you go with a fantastic food shot. Load it up to your computer and almost in no time you can take a look at the results.
...but sometimes taking a look at the results ends up with an unpleasant surprise. What looked great through the view finder or on the little camera screen, now has a not appealing touch into yellow, blue or green. Or you get responses from others telling you, that your photos have a yellow, green or blue color cast. Where in hell did these pretty colors turn into something else?
The answer is very easy: The colors that we human beings see are or can be different from the colors cameras or computer monitors "see, produce or display". The trick is, that we learned to see colors right, even if they are different in the "real" (physical) world. Yes, that can be true. Make a very simple experiment. Take a simple white plate and photograph it with you camera outside on a bright day around noon and then in the house under a simple light bulb. Don't change the camera settings. Load the photos to you computer and take a look at them. The one outside should be white (with default settings of your cameras turned on). But the one taken inside will have a yellow cast. The plate isn't white anymore but more or less yellow. You eye has seen a white plate all the time, because you have learned that the plate is white. Even under physical conditions, where the plate isn't reflecting light, so that it will appear white, we think it is white. This is great for us, because we don't get confused by color changes due to different lighting situations*, but for photography it means to learn the basics about color balance - mainly White Balance. We have to adjust our camera to see things right.

1st statement: Colors in the "real" (physical) world can be different from what we think. Cameras can only display the colors of the "real" world.

What does this mean for food photography? We have to adapt our camera in some way to overcome this physical problem. We have to make our camera ready to see the colors as we want to have them. The keyword here is White Balance. I do not go into the technical background on the meaning of color temperature. It isn't necessary for what we have to do. Important is, we have to change the camera settings in a way, that the camera produces "true" colorsm, so that white is white, blue is blue...

2nd statement: if you never have read any manuals READ the part of your camera's manual on WHITE BALANCE. Do it! If you don't know how to use the white balance feature of your camera right, the colors coming out will always be hit or miss without any control. So, read your manual.

Every camera has some pre-settings for white balance based on general assumptions. These pre-settings often come very close to "reality" and produce good results, which can be improved by some easy postprocessing steps later on. You will find settings for "cloudy day", "sunny day", "in shadow", "tungsten lamp" and others symolized by little pictograms. And you will find a "manual white balance". Try the pre-settings under different conditions to get familiar with them. Use some simple objects for this training: a white plate with some fruit on it for example. Take shots in your usual photography spot. Compare the results.

Now read your manual on "manual white balance adjustment". This is the fine tuning of your camera. Believe me, once you know how to use the manual white balance, you will never use the pre-settings. The idea behind the manual white balance is, that you adjust your camera depending on the momentary light situation by using a so called "gray card". And if you don't have a photographic gray card, you can use a sheet of white paper instead, which oftens gives you good results too. During manual white balance setting steps you "photograph" the gray card (white paper) and the camera is adjusted to this gray/white. Now the white balance is adjusted and colors should be as "true" as possible. At first this might take some time, but after a few times, you will be very fast doing it as a routine step in photo shooting.

Why a gray card? Everything in photographic lighting is based on measurements resulting from reflection of ligth from a defined (photographic) gray card, which reflects defined amount of light. It is a technical agreement on how to measure light, lighting, reflections in photography. You can get these gray cards in every photoshop for reasonable prices.

Now your camera should produce photos with "true colors". But when you take a look at your photos on the computer monitor, they still don't what you want them to be?

3rd statement: you also need to calibrate your computer monitor to display "true" colors. Yes, also the monitor might not display the colors correctly. Most monitors are calibrated during manufacturing, but during the lifetime of a monitor this calibration might get lost due to technical limitations.

I will not go into detail here on monitor calibration and how to do it. I have written about it in the Food Photography Club of Flickr in the thread "Tips, Tricks & Opinions: Monitor Calibration". There you will find more information about it.

If you remember, in my title I have mentioned "color mood". Why? Because sometimes true colors are not what we want to have for compositional reasons. Maybe you want a warmer (more yellow, reddish) color mood to get the impression of a warm day or for a more cozy feeling. Or you would like to have slight blue cast for the idea of a cool morning scenery. Or you just want more popping colors, e.g. an aggressive red, for emphasizing a certain idea. For all these reasons and photographic ideas you may want to change the color mood a bit from neutral (white balance) to a different color mood (warm, cool). Also this can be done with many DSLR (digital single lens reflex) cameras. After you have adjusted manually the white balance, you can manipulate it towards more red, yellow, blue, green... Or you can do it during post processing your images by changing the color balance manually.

My personal opinion
There is nothing more annoying than a wrong white balance in food photography. Green looking potatoes are not very appealing to me. Or who wants to look at a blueish vanilla ice cream? Did a greenish looking steak makes you salivating? White Balance control is an absolute must in food photography, because we are connecting certain colors with different flavors and taste. There is a correlation for me between color and if a food is appealing to me or not. And for me there is nothing worse than to ruin a food photo by mismatching the color balance (which can not be post process later). I always check white balance before and while shooting. Especially, if you are using natural light, color balance can change from one moment to the other. So, if you like just one take home message from me, my message for today is: Adjust and control white balance for food shootings very carefully. And better check it twice than to miss it.


* Funny thought. After you have read my post on color and white balance, try to imagine how dificult it would be to describe the color of a simple thing like a plate. It could be something like this: "I have bought yesterday a plate, which has a velvet soothing white on a bright day, not too cloudy, around noon. This changes to a wonderful yellow on our dining table with our new light bulbs at a color temeparture of 2700 Kelvin. But if I would have known, that it is aweful blueish on early sunday mornings around 8am, I would never have bought it"

If you are interested in details:
On Color Temperature
On Gray Card
On Color Balance
On Understanding White Balance

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Potato Tapas


Potato Tappas (1/2)
© All rights reserved, Thorsten Kraska, 2009


This is a very easy to make snack with potatoes. The spiced potatoes will be baked in the oven. You can serve them with salt only or with a dip or sauce you like.

Potato Tappas
(should serve 4)

1000 g potatoes (waxy, firm variety)
3 sprigs thyme
3 sprigs rosemary
3 sprigs oregano
1 tablespoon paprika powder
1/2 to 1 teaspoon chilli pepper powder
5 tablespoons olive oil
Salt
Maybe some additional oil


Preheat oven to 200°C. Line out one baking tray with baking paper.

Wash and clean potatoes very carefully. Then cut them into wedges.

Remove leaves from thyme and rosemary sprigs. Chop thyme leaves, rosemary leaves and oregano sprigs as fine as you like them. In a large bowl combine the herbs, and other ingredients to make a marinade. Add some salt.

Add potatoes and mix well so that th epotatoes are covered from all sides with the marinade.

Arrange potato in a single layer on the baking tray. Drizzle remaining marinade over the potatoes. Bake potatoes for 30 to 35 minutes until they are golden brown. If the potatoes getting too dry during baking you can drizzle some olive oil over them.

Remove from oven, add salt to taste and serve hot. Serve them with dip or sauce.

A very easy to make dip: grind one garlic clove with a bit of salt and mix it into 100 g jogurt. Add some lemon juice to the jogurt and add salt to your taste.